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Restaurant Mielcke & Hurtigkarl, Copenhagen

1 Frederiksberg Runddel
Denmark 2000
Tel: 45 38 34 84 36
view web site ›'s insider take:

A collaboration of Danish artists, light and textile designers, acoustic experts, and scenographers turned this 18th-century pavilion in the Frederiksberg royal gardens into a nature diorama that's as much art installation as restaurant. Insects and wildflowers decorate woven wall hangings, color-changing crystals hung from the ceiling simulate the passage of the sun, and a playlist of thunder and chirping birds blends with chatter from the fashion mavens who dine here. Chefs Jakob Mielcke Hansen and Jan Hurtigkarl add their own naturalist ode with a prix fixe menu. We sampled wild duck served two ways (over rhubarb compote and paired with turnips and chanterelle mushrooms), but the menu perpetually evolves with the chef's whims. Hansen and Hurtigkarl close the restaurant from January through March to give themselves time for "inspirational culinary traveling."

Open Wednesdays through Sundays noon to 4 pm and 6 to 10 pm, April through September; Thursdays through Saturdays 6 to 10 pm, October through December.

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