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Aamanns, Copenhagen

10 Oster Farimagsgade
Denmark 2100
Tel: 45 3555 3344
view web site ›'s insider take:

Aamanns has made such an impact with its updated take on the Danish smørrebrød tradition that it has become something of a standard-bearer; a New York outpost is expected to open in late 2012. Why the big splash? It's partly to do with the way the restaurant redefines the venerable smørrebrød. In the Aamann's airy dining room, located just behind the National Art Museum, you don't get the usual snaking list of sandwiches. The kitchen decides which trio of sandwiches you will be served that day, plated together, and each is perfectly composed, restrained by Danish standards, and a two-bite wonder (especially the frequently recurring free-range-chicken salad). But the menu veers off into a full selection of small plates, for both lunch and dinner, that range from sugar-salted salmon with cauliflower purée to breast of pork braised with apples, honey, and walnuts. If you are still hungry, there is a take-out with a few tables next door where you can get a wider selection of smørrebrød choices boxed to bring back to your hotel for one of the world's best midnight snacks.—Raphael Kadushin

Open Wednesdays through Saturdays 12 pm to 4 pm and 6 pm to 11 pm.

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