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Portus, Copenhagen

St. Strandstraede 3
Denmark 1255
Tel: 45 33 11 32 42's insider take:

Lying just off Nyhavn, this jammed cabinet of curiosities exemplifies Copenhagen's sudden taste for the kind of antique tchotchkes that mid-century classicists would have kept padlocked in the attic. There are antique Danish, French, and English silver tureens and candlesticks, neoclassical busts and urns, and stuffed waterfowl. Arne Jacobsen would never have made it past the first display of mercury glass, though he might have been more forgiving of the neighboring Basaltindretning, where the relatively restrained selection of quality, pale-gray Gustavian settees and farmhouse cupboards look like stripped-down forerunners of modernity (St. Strandstraede 21; 45-33-14-13-16;; closed Sun and Mon).

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