A good way to start any Cretan meal, is dakos, which is barley rusk (a kind of twice-baked bread) sprinkled with olive oil and topped with cheese, chopped tomato, and oregano. More exotic traditional local fare, now offered mostly just to see if the tourists will eat it, includes rabbit and snails. And while you really ought to eat your vegetablesfennel, eggplant, spinach, artichokes, and the wild mountain green known as stamnagathi are favoriteseven the restaurants with the most traditional menus may offer excellent meat dishes, most often lamb. As a rule, Cretan wines are not thought to rank with the best from elsewhere in Greece. But try a bottle of anything with the Lyrarakis label, in particular the rosés, and judge for yourself if the times might be changing.