Hvar Town , Hvar
Tel: 385 21 74 28 50
Concierge.com's insider take:
The owners of the increasing number of impossibly expensive yachts bobbing just off Hvar are lured onto land by this spot in Groda, Hvar town's oldest neighborhood. It's not the simple interior of wooden tables that does it, brightened as it is by the paintings of one of the owners. It's the soup, called gregada, so thick you need a fork and spoon to eat it. Originally a poor man's dish using boiled whitefish, potatoes, onions, and wine, here it's classed up with John Dory and sea bass. As often as not, when customers order something besides the gregada, they'll change their minds when a bubbling bowl wafts by, leaking the smell of garlic and wine.
Open daily: 12 p.m. to 12 a.m. No lunch on Sunday.