Concierge.com's insider take:
A 17th-century smuggler's inn—very Daphne du Maurier—has been translated into a cool retreat for urban escapees. Its 21 bedrooms are cozy, with low ceilings (basketball players should avoid) and whitewashed beams, wooden slatted shades, limed-wood furniture, crisp linens, piles of down pillows, big soaking tubs, essential-oil bathroom products, and showers that are unusually drenching for England. Also unusual for such a small hotel is an ultraclassy spa (in-room and alfresco full-moon treatments on a private terrace are available). There's a top restaurant too, and dramatic views over the cove. It's pricey, but small and perfect.