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Seafood Restaurant, Padstow

England, Europe: Stein's The Seafood Restaurant in the seaside town of Padstow in Cornwall is an upscale
Riverside
Padstow , Cornwall
England
Tel: 44 1841 532 700
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Rick Stein owns Padstow—he made Padstow; he is Padstow. Rick Stein, in case you hadn't heard, is the premier fish chef of England, especially since he got his own TV shows (though mercifully he remains unaffected and likable). His food has always been likable too, big in flavor, inventive but not gimmicky, balanced and understated. This is the most serious of his four Padstow restaurants—the others are a bistro, a café, and a fish and chip shop. Menus are totally dependent on the fishermen, but if anyone in the country can score the pick of the catch, Stein can. He'll cook classic (roast turbot with hollandaise; skate with black butter) or modish (char-grilled sea bass with tomato, butter, and vanilla vinaigrette); ethnic (monkfish Goan curry with cucumber and lime salad and cumin puris) or fusion (Dover sole with stir-fried wild garlic, sorrel and asparagus, soy sauce, and sesame oil dressing)—it's all good. There's always at least one meat dish, but would you go to Le Bernardin to eat steak? Reserve way in advance.

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