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Purple Ocean, Dun Laoghaire

St. Michael's Pier
Dun Laoghaire
Ireland
Tel: 353 1 284 5590
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Follow the purple glow atop the St. Michael's Pier ferry terminal to find this aptly named squat glass lighthouse of a place, then mount the metal violet-lit stairs into the mauve-toned room with its navy and eggplant chairs and wooden tables set with cobalt-blue wineglasses and votives in amethyst holders. The look may be gimmicky, but luckily the food isn't. It's solid, satisfying, and large, with a lot of trendy dishes—trendy from the 1980s or '90s, that is. You might accuse a chef who writes a menu that includes tandoori chicken, warm goat-cheese tart, deep-fried Brie with berry compote, blackened Cajun chicken, steak au poivre, and tournedos Rossini of being retro-ironic, but Paul Lewis is not. He just likes that food—and so will you. He includes some innovative dishes too, like scallops and black pudding with Pommery mustard sauce or crisp-roasted Barbary duck with black-cherry-brandy sauce. There's a plate-glass window for taking advantage of the glorious view of the marina, and, better still, outside tables. Best of all, a glass tower with a 360-degree view over Dublin Bay is perched above it all. Reserve ahead for those tables, especially in summer.

Closed Mondays.

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