Concierge.com's insider take:
It looks worryingly touristique, but this place in the renovated 19th-century Nautical Academy has been reliable for years. Three big terraces overlook the harbor in the shadow of the Bokar and Lovrijenac fortresses. Though meat dishes are plentiful, stick with the fish, which, unsurprisingly given the setting, is what they do best. Standouts include shrimp in a sweet-and-salty lemon sauce served with carrot-stuffed black ravioli, and baked Adriatic gilt-head breama fish known as "dorade royale" on that other riviera.