Aux Terrasses, Tournus, Burgundy
Concierge.com's insider take:
Decades ago, food lovers began driving out of their way for the classic Burgundian cooking of Michelin-starred chef Michel Carrette, whose handsome, family-run hotel and restaurant was—and still is—a favorite insider's address. For the last few years, it's been in the capable hands of second-generation chef Jean-Michel Carrette and wife Henriette. Neither the location (on the southern edge of Tournus, facing a supermarket and condo complex) nor the comfortable and affordable yet uninspired guest rooms ($84 to $100) are anything to write home about—but they never were. Aux Terrasses's dining rooms still look like a provincial bourgeois home, with solid wooden furniture, upholstered chairs, flowery curtains, and oil paintings in the style of centuries past, though the Carrettes have added a splash of red lacquer paint here or a snaky Moroccan table lamp there. The food is also resolutely contemporary in presentation, but Burgundian traditions shine through in dishes such as ravioli escargot and wine-braised local pike-perch wrapped in cured ham from the Morvan mountains. Seasonal desserts are remarkably light (macarons bedded on shaved strawberries, wine-poached pears with gingerbread), and there are plenty of fine, affordable wines, some served by the glass. In summer, book a table on the terrace: It has attractive teak furniture and lots of green plants. Prix fixe menus start at $40 ($34 for weekday lunch); expect to pay $70 to $90 per person à la carte.—David Downie
Open Wednesdays through Saturdays noon to 1:30 pm and 7 to 9:30 pm, Sundays noon to 1:30 pm, and Mondays and Tuesdays 7 to 9:30 pm, February through December (closed January and ten days in June).
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