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Pierre Gagnaire is not only a wizard of contemporary French gastronomy but also one of the most original and artistic chefs working anywhere today. The...more
see the Paris guideUnder the aegis of globe-trotting überchef Alain Ducasse, this elegant ivory-colored dining room in the Plaza Athénée does an appealing,...more
see the Paris guidePart of what's been called the "barefoot Riviera," Calypso sits along the port in the (relatively) relaxed fishing village of Villefranche-sur-Mer, with...more
see the Côte d'Azur guideThe eponymous chef of this restaurant—who left a career at the Ritz in Paris to return to his native turf and earn his Michelin star—specializes in...more
see the Avignon guideLook at the address—this is nothing to do with pork. It's a delightful casually epicurean tribute to fish that's been run by the Sordello family for...more
see the Côte d'Azur guideThe Web site alone should be a clue that this well-regarded portside restaurant is staking its reputation on bouillabaisse—and with good reason. The...more
see the Marseille guideArgentine chef Mauro Colagreco worked under superstar Alain Passard at L'Arpège in Paris, one of the world's premier places for fresh vegetables, so it's...more
see the Côte d'Azur guideThis is the very formal, very expensive, and rather overlit restaurant of the Hôtel d'Europe. On warm evenings, you can eat out in the courtyard and...more
see the Avignon guideIn Paris, fancy restaurants are out (for now) andtiny bistros in outlying arrondissements are in. And the most exciting table du jour is Giovanni Passerini's...more
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Milk-goats no longer wander up Rue Mouffetard, but this cobbled market street has retained much of its pre-industrial character. A dozen "old Paris" shops sell...more
see the Paris guide









