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Selitsa, Kalamata

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Tel: 27210 41331's insider take:

About two miles northeast of Kalamata center (follow Navarinou towards Verga, then the signs for Selitsa village)

While you browse the menu, nibble on paximadia, whole-wheat bread slices that are baked until they become hard rusks. (Traditionally served at a meal after a funeral, paximadia are also eaten year-round under happier circumstances, sometimes in a sweet version.) Selitsa's are scented with oregano and olive oil. Youvetsi, a baked pasta, meat, and tomato dish, is delicious, as is the spetsofai sausage and pepper casserole. A stream runs by the restaurant, and there's also a small castle next door, which is a bar in summer. The restaurant commands a gorgeous view of Kalamata and the Gulf of Messinia.

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