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Sinantisi, Mavrovouni, Peloponnese

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Town square Mavrovouni (about one mile south of Gythio)
Tel: 27330 22256's insider take:

This pleasant little grill serves traditional Greek food using local produce: artichokes in spring, eggplant and tomatoes in summer. At any time of year, ask to visit the kitchen so the chef can show you what's good: He may gesture toward a pile of wild greens, or show you a refrigerator drawer filled with glistening fresh octopus (nearby Gythio, with its surrounding gulf, is the octopus capital of Greece). The offerings include several savory baked dishes, usually in a clay pot. You'll also find garlicky tzatziki and luscious, creamy taramasalata, the dip made with pink fish roe. Dinner only.

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