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Paxos, Paxos

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Greece's insider take:

This eight-mile-long island might just as well be called Anti-Corfu; it's as sleepy and lush as its more popular neighbor is thronged and developed. Not many tourists even come to Paxos; those who do tend to rent villas and stay for a while to enjoy the olive groves and the craggy coastline with sea caves so large they hid submarines during World War II. The unpopulated landscape cries for exploration; Ita's Cars, in the port of Gaios, rents the four-wheel-drives needed to reach many of the hilltop hamlets (Gaios; 30-697-340-1658;; closed Sun). Conversely, Captain Nikos Boat Hire, in the port of Loggos, rents motorboats; after a quick boat-handling lesson, clients are set loose for the day (Loggos; 30-266-203-0059;; closed Oct–April). If you'd rather not do your own navigating, hitch a ride on one of the fishing boats that leave daily from Gaios (just ask around at the docks) to the islets of Agios Nikolaos, which has the ruins of a 1423 Venetian castle. Boats also run regularly to Antipaxos, which has a few tavernas and summer homes, two sandy beaches, vineyards, and not much else.

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