Concierge.com's insider take:
Nearly every village on the island is big enough and thirsty enough to support a rum shop. These 100-proof community centers begin bustling by late morning, and a steady stream of customers stop by for the banter, a game of dominoes, and a shot of local Clarke's Court rum or Under the Counter, a rum-based moonshine steeped with nuts, spices, tree bark and deer horn. Hours vary according to the alcohol intake of customers and proprietors. Along the bluff-top coastal road in Grand Roy, a 20-minute drive north of St. George's, self-styled "chemist" McLeish "Pappy" Langaigne (473-444-8037) mixes white rum with hibiscus, cloves, nutmeg, or the bark of the bois bande tree, renowned for its Viagra-like qualities. Try it by the shot or buy a bottle (about $10).