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Cyril's Fish House, Amagansett

2167 Montauk Highway
Amagansett , New York
Tel: 631 267 7993's insider take:

Timing is everything at this Caribbean-style seafood shack. At lunchtime, families sit under umbrellas, taking plastic flatware to citrus-accented broiled bass fillet and lightly fried squid with Buffalo-style sauce and blue cheese dressing. In the late afternoon and evening, crowds of beach-tanned singles in flip-flops and tank tops quaff rum punch and frozen margaritas, transforming the roadside eatery into a buzzing pickup scene. Cyril, with his white beard, funky sunglasses, straw hat, and (if you're lucky) flowing sarong, works the crowd. The bohemian proprietor is quick to accept a drink, but he doesn't accept credit cards—so bring cash or you'll be saddled with his high ATM fee.

Open daily 11 am to 10 pm, mid-April through early October.

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