Concierge.com's insider take:
Lined with an array of trendy bars, Pest's Ráday utca is a destination for upscale pub crawls. But when it comes to upscale dining, nothing on the strip, and few restaurants in all of Budapest, comes close to matching Costes. Portuguese chef Miguel Rocha Vieira, who trained with Ferran Adrià, prepares dishes with a touch of El Bulli innovation: creamy kohlrabi soup with crunchy dumplings, miniature oxtail tortellini, and blue-cheese ice cream with a spicy ginger granité, for example. The dining room, decorated in shades of bronze and cream with intimate booths, is similarly decadent, which seems to suit the mostly foreign crowd—a mix of British, French, and Russian power players (and just plain players). While the synchronized, white-glove service can be a bit heavy-handed, dinner here makes for the sort of luxurious night out that the recession has made scarce. If you splurge on the multicourse tasting menus, don't skimp on the wine pairings, which feature lesser-known producers such as Austria's Szigeti and Hungary's Csaba Demeter and Homonna—Evan Rail
Open Fridays and Saturdays noon to midnight.
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