The Publican, Chicago, Illinois
Concierge.com's insider take:
From the team behind Blackbird and Avec, this Fulton Market District newcomer taps into the prevailing fashion for down-home dining and restaurant patrons' hunger for blue-ribbon meat. The buzzy dining room feels like a cross between a barn and a beer hall, with paintings of torpedo-size pigs overlooking a communal table lined with 100 ladder-back chairs. But there's a lot of pedigree underlying the folksy informality—starting with the expertise of executive chef Paul Kahan and chef de cuisine Brian Huston. Their serious sourcing of organic heartland swine shines in dishes such as potted pork rillettes (a bargain at $12) and sweet, woody pork ribs, while a textbook wood-roasted chicken and smoked trout dressed up with pomegranate and apple exemplify the kitchen's easy way with less manly plates. Supersized like everything else here, the long bar offers up a snaking list of American, English, and Belgian brews to wash it all down. Raphael Kadushin
Open Mondays through Saturdays 3:30 pm to 2 am, Sundays 10 am to 2 pm.
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