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Zakynthos, Zakynthos

Greece's insider take:

Two kinds of visitors are drawn here, and they're wildly different. On one end are party-hearty twentysomethings who come to lose what few inhibitions they have left in the southern resort town of Laganas. (Unfortunately, endangered loggerhead turtles use the same southerly beaches as their nesting grounds.) On the other end are the nature-loving types who head for the amazingly verdant and pristine northern coast. Two extraordinary sites are here: the Blue Caves of Cape Skinari—huge, light-filled sea caves large enough to swim in or take boats into—and Shipwreck Beach, a remote, cliff-surrounded crescent of sand where cigarette smugglers ran aground in the 1970s and left behind a boat carcass half-buried in the sand. The brothers who run the Potamitis Brothers Windmills Accommodation in the northerly town of Volimes operate tours to both.

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