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Greece's insider take:

The southernmost of the Ionian Islands and the legendary birthplace of Aphrodite, Kythira was once considered all but inaccessible. Though it's still remote (you can reach it by plane from Athens or ferry from the Peloponnese), it's worth the trip. The few tourists here tend to be quiet sorts who've come to enjoy the stark, ruggedly beautiful scenery. Though there are walking trails all over, your best bet is to rent a car or moped and tool around (there are lots of rental options in the island's single resort town, Kapsali, on the southern end). You can check out the gorgeous (and usually empty) beach at Agia Pelagia on the northeastern coast, or take photographs at the windswept medieval villages of Aroniadika and Pitsinades, which are rumored to be haunted. Other sights include a ruined early-16th-century Venetian castle above the lovely capital of Chora; the Cave of Agia Sophia, with its 11th-century wall paintings; and the picture-perfect main square and nearby Neraida Waterfalls at the inland village of Milopotamos.

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