Recently visited JSM in May 2013. We were able to visit many off the beaten path locations thanks to our wonderful guide (Sam). For instance, we experienced the chant at sundown at the Church of Saint Mary Magdalena, and had a tour inside the Dome of the rock. We also toured outside of JSM with him -- he knows the whole country, and even facilitated great prices at hotels for us. Sam's contact info is in Frommer's guide to Jerusalem.