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While the French slave for hours, fussily transforming ingredients into perfect dishes, Italians prefer to use perfect ingredients and let them speak for themselves. Pasta is a staple across the country, eaten as a first course and usually followed by a meat or fish main course. Pizza is a popular, cheap, and cheerful alternative. Italian restaurants will often cap off your meal with limoncello or another homemade digestivo.
Italian wines are among the best in the world and are priced accordingly. But in the wine regions, you can always get a great inexpensive bottle. The best reds—from full-bodied to ephemeral—come from Tuscany (avoid straw-covered bottles of Chianti, which will invariably be bad), Umbria, and Piedmont. If you're celebrating, prosecco (sparkling white wine) is a bargain compared with its French cousin, Champagne.
The little mirror trays next to the hand basins in the restrooms say it all. They're ironic, of course (at least, we didn't see any telltale traces of white...more
see the Milan guideThe little town of Sant'Agata is a rather modest place, but it plays host to what is generally (and rightly) considered to be the best table south of Rome,...more
see the Amalfi Coast guideHigh above Positano, on the slopes of Monte Sant'Angelo, is a tiny village called Montepertuso. Of an evening, Positanesi and tuned-in visitors brave the...more
see the Amalfi Coast guideBohemian chic is the key mood in this funky gourmet bistro. In a designer-cluttered former druggist's emporium, with ancient glass jars still intact on the...more
see the Bologna guideNot to be confused with Al Duomo in Taormina, this Michelin-starred spot features the wizardry of one of Sicily's hottest chefs, Ciccio Sultano. Upon returning...more
see the Sicily guideThis Slow Food, shabby-chic restaurant is a novelty in Capri; a welcome change from pink tablecloths and black-stemmed glasses. Only one room and a cute...more
see the Capri guideThis elegant, high-class temple to culinary excellence is Florence's best restaurant by a long chalk; it also has the distinction of being one of the most...more
see the Florence guideThe granddaughter of Hotel Santa Caterina's founder runs this upscale, upstairs place with tasty views over Amalfi's harbor—at their best if you book one...more
see the Amalfi Coast guideIt takes a while to soak in this new Oltrarno contemporary bistroespecially if you come early, when service and atmosphere are both getting up to speed....more
see the Florence guideOne of the city's most original restaurants, the bistrolike Fioraio Bianchi Caffè occupies a former flower shop in the artsy, fashionista Brera district....more
see the Milan guide









