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Volterra, Volterra

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This was once the northernmost of the Etruscan League of 12 cities, but today its appearance is largely medieval. There are a few historical remnants, however—like the Etruscan Arch, with three dark heads carved above it, and the Ancient Roman Theater just outside the Porta Fiorentina, one of the best preserved theaters of the period in all of Italy. Art historians travel here just to see Rosso Fiorentino's painting of the Deposition on wood in the Pinacoteca in via Sarti 1. The Etruscan Museo Guarnacci (15 Via Don Minzoni; 39-0588-86-347) has a fabulous collection of rare alabaster burial urns and the celebrated Evening Shadow statuette. Alabaster is still quarried in the surrounding area today, fashioned into artifacts that make good souvenirs (see Shopping).

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