L'Atelier de JoŽl Robuchon, Tokyo
Concierge.com's insider take:
While the number of famous French chefs' outposts in Tokyo is beginning to reach a critical mass, this casual eatery in the Roppongi Hills luxury mall is pure pleasure. The food is served by a well-informed staff at a black lacquered counter that arcs around an open kitchen. The Franco-Japanese cuisine emphasizes clean, bright flavors and inventive pairings, such as the edamame sauce that graces lasagna of ibérico ham and mackerel pike or the soy sauce–spiked caramelized quail. Everyone seems to be having fun here, including the young, enthusiastic waitstaff and the small army of chefs. There's a fine selection of wine by the glass, and the prix fixe menus are both generous in their offerings and reasonably priced. Robuchon has other Tokyo restaurants (as well as mainstays in Paris, New York, and Las Vegas), including the very formal Château Restaurant Joël Robuchon, but none is as much fun as this. (No reservations.)
Open daily 11:30 am to 2:30 pm and 6 to 11 pm.