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Sukeroku, Tokyo

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7-9-10 Ginza
Tel: 81 3 3573 7787
Metro: Ginza's insider take:

One visit to this tiny jewel—with nine counter seats, no tables, and a kitchen the size of an airplane galley—in the heart of Ginza will forever wean you off clever sushi concoctions and remind you what the best sushi is really about: the freshest, choicest fish available. There are no menu and no price list. While you shouldn't hesitate to let chef Fumio Sato know your likes and dislikes (and your spending limit), you'd be wise to leave yourself in his very experienced hands. He's been in the sushi biz for more than a quarter century, and he personally goes to the fish market before dawn each morning to pick out the day's offerings, which might include tuna from the Indian Ocean, abalone from California, and sea urchins from Maine. Be sure to order his miso soup with shijimi baby clams at the end of the meal. The charming, amiable Sato-san is as big a draw as his sushi. Though his English vocabulary is limited, he uses it with great enthusiasm and humor. Pricey but not outrageous (your check will depend on what Sato serves you, what you ask for, what the day's offerings are, and the fluctuating prices of fish). Reservations a must; a day ahead should be fine.

Dinner only.

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