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Varanda, Lisbon

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz
88 Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca
Lisbon
Portugal 1099-039
Tel: 351 21 381 1400
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Beautiful views over flower-filled terraces to Eduardo VII park from this restaurant in the Four Seasons make the lavish lunch buffet here extra-delightful. At night, the à la carte dinner is worth the splurge, especially since chef de cuisine Stéphane Hestin joined straight from the three-Michelin-star La Côte d'Or in Saulieu, France. Hestin's classical training adds layers that Portuguese tradition never imagined to local dishes like a seafood rice casserole, but mostly he produces exquisite Mediterranean dishes with a French influence that are all his own: wild mushroom tempura; sautéed crayfish with chestnuts, celery, and truffle oil; sea bass, calamari, and clams with spider crab emulsion and asparagus; milk-fed veal with citrus and pistachio pesto.

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