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Manifesto, Lisbon

9C Largo de Santos
Lisbon
Portugal 1200 808
Tel: 351 21 396 3419
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Concierge.com's insider take:

Fun features highly at Manifesto in the Santos district, where fêted chef Luis Baena brings back culinary classics from his worldwide travels and presents them in a playful and distinctly Portuguese way. The restaurant offers a humongous selection of small plates made from local ingredients, kicked off by cheese lollipops and multicolored rice crackers. Don't expect your regular tapas. Whatever his starting point—be it Portuguese classics, American fast food, or Japanese sushi—Buena clearly has fun deconstructing it. Dishes include a Mac Silva (a codfish pancake with iceberg lettuce, radish, and mayonnaise) served in a plastic burger container; a hot dog with prawns on a brioche served in a dog bowl with homemade ketchup in a small spray bottle; and sushi with Pata Negra ham, Ilha cheese from the Azores, and port caviar. There's also a spot of molecular gastronomy: egg yolk cooked at 64 degrees Celsius and mixed with truffle oil. The decor of the dining room is as much fun as the menu, with its Pop Art-y theme and colorful, scribble-covered walls.—Anja Mutić

Open Mondays through Thursdays 12:30 to 3 pm and 7:30 to 11:30 pm, Fridays 12:30 to 3 pm and 7:30 to midnight, and Saturdays 7:30 pm to 1 am.

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