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Lisbon see + do

At the far western end of Europe, Lisbon's topography—and geography—alone makes it worth visiting, with the 18th-century Baixa neighborhood framed by hills across the River Tagus and the Castelo de São Jorge (351-21-880-0620; www.castelosaojorge.egeac.pt) perched above the whitewashed medieval Alfama. After his 1809 visit, Lord Byron, not easy to impress, declared that "to travel the world and leave out Lisbon is to go blind about." So it's only right that the few decades the Portuguese capital spent on the bottom of people's European must-see lists are history. This city is booming, with a succession of rebuilding waves having left various parts of it transformed for good. First, a catastrophic fire back in 1988 led to the rethinking of the tony Chiado neighborhood—largely under the aegis of Oporto architect Avaro Siza Vieira—and a wave of development along the neglected waterfront followed. Arriving a decade later, the 1998 Expo was the largest single event of its kind in Lisbon's history, and it left the magnificent souvenir of an entire new district fashioned from a derelict wasteland—the Parque das Nações. With its huge Oceanário, Europe's biggest aquarium (Esplanada D. Carlos I, Doca dos Olivais; 351-21-891-7002; www.oceanario.pt), its venues, the Pavilhão de Portugal (Alameda dos Oceanos, Parque das Nações; www.parquedasnacoes.pt), Pavilhão Atlantico (Rossio dos Olivais, Lote 2.13.01A; 351-21-891-8409; www.pavilhaoatlantico.pt), and Teatro Luís de Camões (Passeio de Neptuno, Parque das Nações; 351-218-923-470; www.cnb.pt in Portuguese only), the übermall Centro Vasco da Gama (Av. D. João II, Lote 1.05.02; 351-21-893-0600; www.centrovascodagama.pt), and, maybe best of all, Santiago Calatrava's Gare do Oriente (piso 1, Av. D. João II; 351-21-318-5990; www.cp.pt) rail station, what used to be called Cabo Ruivo is now essential on any itinerary. Yet most people will still crave the old town most of all, and various historic districts, too, are evolving. The funky Bairro Alto, with its narrow alleys and late-night bars, is having a moment, its longtime status as nightlife central being augmented by a new role as a source of chic boutiques. The happening waterfront Docas, where many warehouses have been transformed into bars and restaurants, is also a good option for nightlife.

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Museu Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisbon

Guggenheim-level collector Gulbenkian amassed treasures dating from 2000 B.C. to the early 20th century: See an Egyptian scarab as well as other examples of...more

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MUDE, Lisbon

Lisbon's Design and Fashion Museum caused quite a splash when it moved from the Belém Cultural Center to its new premises in a former bank headquarters on...more

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The melancholic (well, tragic), soulful acoustic songs belted out late at night in smoky clubs are welded to the culture of Portugal, but the real deal can be...more

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Belem, Lisbon

This western waterfront neighborhood beckons with its many examples of the exclusively Portuguese Manueline style of late Gothic architecture. Museums abound,...more

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Information may have changed since date of publication. Please confirm details with individual establishments before planning your trip.

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