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Cafés, Ljubljana

Slovenia's insider take:

Ljubljana has more cafés than a dalmatian has spots, and almost every one along the eastern bank of the river on Cankarjevo nabrežje is worth a stop, if only for the ambience. Tables sit atop the river embankments, shaded by willow trees. Choice depends mostly on where you can find an empty table. Zvezda, located just across from the University of Ljubljana, is a favorite of students, young professionals, and anyone with a sweet tooth—try the Torta Zvezda, vanilla mascarpone and cherries in a cookie crust, topped with chocolate and strawberries (14 Wolfova; 386-1-421-9090). For a more artistic scene, head to Le Petit Café. Besides beer and a litany of caffeinated beverages, there's also beef carpaccio, pasta dishes, and big salads (4 Trg Francoske Revolucije; 386-1-251-2575). Tea drinkers should head for Cajna Hisa (3 Stari Trg; 386-1-421-2444; Closed Sundays), which serves more than 50 different varieties—Indian, Chinese, green, herbal, fruit, and iced—in a cozy, vaulted, partially frescoed interior as well as at outdoor tables.

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