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Great Queen Street, London

32 Great Queen Street
England WC2B 5AA
Tel: 44 20 7242 0622's insider take:

Great Queen Street is the name of a restaurant located on Great Queen Street. From that fact, you know it's a place where stolid common sense wins out over cleverness and wit. The terse menu descriptions—asparagus; beetroot, goat's curd, and mint; beef rib for two; crab on toast—reinforce the sense that this is a place for Serious Cooking, not frivolity. But Great Queen Street, the younger sister of popular gastropub Anchor & Hope, is anything but pretentious: It's just a long room with a bar to one side; seating arranged in a grid; walls painted dark red; and floors, tables, and chairs fashioned from nondescript wood. But it's all energetic, friendly, and light. The beet salad is chunky and substantial, a sprinkling of bread crumbs underscoring its earthiness. The beef rib and its accompanying chips are exemplary (the chef, Tom Norrington-Davies, buys a whole side of Hereford beef each week and works his way through it). Braised dishes are a specialty—if you see oxtail, order it. The produce is all seasonal and fresh; the wine list brief, reasonable, and ever evolving (the wine is served in tumblers, naturally); the apron-wearing servers knowledgeable and welcoming. In short, Great Queen Street is a terrific choice for a moderately priced lunch or dinner in Covent Garden. And unlike at the Anchor & Hope, reservations are accepted.—Peter J. Frank

Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 12 to 2:30 pm and 6 to 10:30 pm, Sundays one 2 pm sitting, and Mondays 6 to 10:30 pm.

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Exactly as advertised.

Great British dining experience. Lots of locals who seemed to be enjoying themselves, which is usually a very good sign. Wait staff was very friendly, and happy to... more