The honeymoon is finally over for Gordon Ramsay, the much-lauded soccer player turned superchef. While fine diners still appreciate Ramsay for the brilliant and entrepreneurial restaurateur that he is (his foray into gastropubs has been less well received), media saturation and high prices have pushed many a fan into the arms of another. And that other is Alan Yau, whose latest ventures are polar opposites. Sake No Hana is expensive Japanese with a sake menu nonpareil, while Cha Cha Moon is the perfect credit-crunch Chinese (1521 Ganton St., W1F 9BN; 44-20-7297-9800). Hotel restaurants (and bars) are in vogue, with Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Hélène Darroze at the Connaught, Ramsay at Claridge's, and Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley. Pubsgastro and otherwisecontinue to thrive, and, of course, there is always a plentiful supply of curry houses and noodle bars.