Concierge.com's insider take:
Michael Cimarusti made his name transforming the downtown—and rather pedestrian— Water Grill into an acclaimed restaurant. Now in his own venue in an airy, modern space near Paramount Studios, he continues to turn out some of the best seafood in the city. Start with an appetizer of Japanese kanpachi (a kind of yellowtail) in a truffle vinaigrette, or Dungeness crab with mango, pickled red jalapeño, and cilantro; then follow up with the Japanese tai snapper with a fresh tomato compote, or Tasmanian sea trout served with apple butter and parsnip purée. At lunch, there's a fabulous, smoky bacon-infused take on that New England staple, lovingly called "clam chowda." The restaurant's spare decor reinforces the sea theme with ceramic wall hangings that look like rising air bubbles and candleholders resembling delicate spines of coral.