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Osteria Mozza

6602 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles , California
Tel: 323 297 0100
view web site ›'s insider take:

This Italian love child of Mario Batali and Nancy Silverton is just what you'd expect a duo of star chefs to dish up: dazzling, ambitious, and perhaps a wee bit overhyped. The menu, a Tuscan odyssey of cheese, pasta, seafood, and meat, is terrific, but average schmoes should expect to dine at 5:30 or 10 pm unless they belly up to the restaurant's no-reservations mozzarella bar, where Silverton can often be found preparing bite-size masterpieces of bacon-sprinkled burrata or a grilled cheese panino with salami and chile peppers. Next door, the restaurant's more humble cousin, Pizzeria Mozza, offers a comparatively casual vibe, where specials are scribbled on a blackboard and rustic brick ovens turn out spectacular pies with unexpected toppings like squash blossoms and burrata or egg and guanciale (a.k.a. pig's cheeks). A take-out pizzeria has also been added to the growing Mozza empire, along with a cooking school, so now you can take Batali's secrets home with you.—Audrey Davidow

Open Mondays through Fridays 5 to 11 pm, Saturdays 5 to 10 pm.

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