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Hakkasan, Madrid

2 Calle Estafeta
Plaza Nueva Moraleja, Alcobendas
Tel: 34 91 625 0072's insider take:

Maybe you didn't think you'd be eating in Asian restaurants of any kind on this trip, let alone a Japanese-Chinese-Peruvian restaurant—fusion yet! But you'll be glad you followed the chic hordes to this (it's fair to say) unique place. The restaurant is no relation to the London hot spot of the same name, though the owners know its owner, Alan Yau, and named this as a kind of insider tribute. The space ingeniously envelops each table in its own elegant Zen mini-environment, preparing you to tackle the unfamiliar menu—not that this is too onerous a task. In the kitchen, a Peruvian, a Japanese, and a Chinese chef work side by side, making sense of this wild idea with such dishes as grouper ceviche with fried yuca, crunchy duck pouch, or beef with oyster sauce and wok-fried vegetables. The distance from ceviche to sushi to dim sum isn't so vast, after all.

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