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Ramón Freixa Madrid, Madrid

Hotel Selenza
67 Calle Claudio Coello
Spain 28001
Tel: 34 917 818 262
view web site ›'s insider take:

Ramón Freixa does not know the meaning of "less is more." It's said that the chef of Barcelona's one-star Racó d'en Freixa searched for years for a new place to fully express his vision, and now that he's found it—in Madrid of all places—the emphasis is definitely on the fully. From the decor (postmodern Baroque—not, unfortunately, an oxymoron) to the tableware (black water goblets! gold chargers!) to the mignardises served before dessert, everything at Ramón Freixa Madrid is over the top. That can be a bad thing, as in the case of a rather heaping plate of "snacks"—a spoonful of spherified foie gras, a strangely matzoh-like cornet piped with chorizo cream, a lozenge of gelified cola—which are united only by their common diminuitiveness. But it can also be very, very good. Why have a boring old salad if you can match each raw vegetable with its dried-and-fried twin? Why content yourself with a rich, herby stew of sautéed wild mushrooms when you can top it with sweet rounds of octopus? And crisp rabbit ribs? And tiny pancetta meatballs? Three cooking styles for the lobster, ten textures for the tomatoes, six kinds of chocolate with your coffee…who said the age of excess is over?—Jack Turner, first published on

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