For years, the capital sat on the sidelines, watching maverick chef-chemist Ferran Adrià, the founder of the foam, rise to prominence in Catalonia and become the world's most important culinary figure since Escoffier. To date, Adrià's only appearance in Madrid is a joint venture with NH Hotels called Fast Good, a cafeteria-style lunch stop. But his disciples have arrived, constructing kitchens with chemical laboratories full of centrifuges and nitrogen cartridges. If you come to the capital looking only for the latest in food science, however, you'll risk missing out on some of the city's noblest traditions: a simple roast suckling pig, for instance, or raciones (small plates) of marinated octopus. Don't skip the famous raw cured hams: jamón serrano and its pricier brother, the buttery jamón ibérico, best enjoyed by themselves on a plate, or at most atop pan tomaca, that classic Spanish toasted bread rubbed with garlic and a thin sheen of tomato. Eating traditional tapas has more to do with grazing while on a night out, so if you're looking for recommendations, go to our Nightlife section.