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Real Football, Madrid

Spain's insider take:

Anyone who even nominally follows soccer is in awe of Real Madrid, and if you're lucky enough to be in town for a game (half the weekends from September to May, generally), you should try to get a ticket. Real Madrid plays at the legendary 75,000-seat Santiago Bernabéu stadium in Chamartín (34-902-324-324; If you can't score tickets on the phone, you can buy them from scalpers outside the stadium, sometimes at only a mild markup. And if Real is playing away, Atlético, known as "Atleti," another distinguished club, might be at home; they play at Vicente Calderón stadium, closer to downtown ( In keeping with Madrid's born-again culinary identity, there's now an ambitious and creative restaurant right in Bernabéu stadium called RealCafé Bernabéu, where you can dine on bonito over quince and Thai tomato, or baby squid with shiitake mushrooms, artichokes, and mushroom reduction, in front of plate-glass windows overlooking the field, even when there's no match going on (

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