Concierge.com's insider take:
A ten-minute walk from Le Petit Nice brings you to the Vallon des Auffes, a perfect, small calanque (gorge) tucked away underneath the Corniche where Marseille fishermen and their families live. Here you'll find Chez Fonfon, popular since the 1950s with actors and celebrities for sophisticated seafood at reasonable prices. Specialties of the house include good bouillabaisse and the Provençal fish stew called bourride, grilled catch-of-the-day, salt-crusted fish, shrimp, and live lobster, as well as Provençal lamb. For an even simpler meal in the same magical setting, stroll down the block to no. 129 and the Pizzeria Jeannot (91 52 11 28).
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