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Quartier du Panier, Marseille

France's insider take:

Explore the crooked, narrow streets of the Quartier du Panier north of the Vieux Port, the oldest part of the city where the original Greek settlers built their temples. The winding streets lead up to the Centre de la Vieille Charité, probably the most beautiful poorhouse ever conceived, with a rectangular courtyard that boasts sweeping galleries on three levels (2 Rue de la Charité; 33-4-91-14-58-80). Today, it contains several exhibition spaces and museums (one on Mediterranean archaeology, another on the native arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas). More-modern work is displayed nearby, at the former granary now named Red Light District gallery, featuring lively exhibitions of contemporary art (20 Rue Saint-Antoine; 33-4-91-90-49-67;

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