see + do
Concierge.com's insider take:
During the late 19th and 20th centuries, such celebrated painters as Cézanne, Braque, Derain, and Renoir were attracted to a small working-class port in the northernmost part of the city called L'Estaque ("connection" in Provençal). And with good reason: The neighborhood has a colorful character and is still one of the most picturesque areas of the city, where families congregate on summer evenings and weekends. The parents settle at one of the cafés for an aperitif; the children get money to buy a panisse (chickpea-flour fritter: circular and slightly salted) or a chichi freggi (a doughnut sprinkled with sugar); both are specialties of the port. Of the many cafés and simple restaurants, try Larrieu, right on the waterfront (64 Plage Estaque; 33-4-91-46-09-53).