Martha's Vineyard

Lay of the Land
Just seven miles off the Massachusetts mainland, Martha's Vineyard is more accessible than Nantucket. The island's three main towns are on the eastern coast. Edgartown, which occupies the Vineyard's southeastern corner, is a quaint jumble of old-fashioned guesthouses, pubs, boutiques, and cafés. Just north is Oak Bluffs, with its much-photographed, gaily painted gingerbread houses and its comparatively raucous nightlife scene. At the northern tip of the island is Vineyard Haven, the most genteel of the towns, with chichi shops and no alcohol (folks arriving on the ferries to Vineyard Haven are often seen lugging their own cases of beer). To the west, Chilmark and West Tisbury are largely residential and farming communities; those who really like to get away—and who appreciate great sunsets—head for the painted cliffs of Aquinnah, on the island's western edge.

WHEN TO GO

Memorial Day to Labor Day is prime time here, meaning huge crowds and high prices. Waits of 30 minutes or more are common at popular restaurants, and hotels book up well in advance. For more availability and lower prices, come in early autumn, when temperatures are still high and the Atlantic remains warm enough for swimming.

HOW TO GET THERE

Getting to the Vineyard can be trying, especially in summer. Depending on where you're coming from, expect a Planes, Trains, and Automobiles experience. To ease the trip, check out Smart Guide (www.smartguide.org), which lists car-free ways to get to and around the island.

FERRY
There's no lack of ferry service to the island, with frequent departures from Woods Hole (Steamship Authority, 508-477-8600; www.steamshipauthority.com), Falmouth (Island Queen, 508-548-4800; www.islandqueen.com), Hyannis (Hy-line Cruises, 508-778-2600; www.hy-linecruises.com), and New Bedford (New-Bedford-to-Martha's-Vineyard Express Ferry, 866-453-6800; www.mvexpressferry.com). There are also summer-only ferries from Nantucket (Hy-line Cruises) and Quonset Point in North Kingstown, Rhode Island (Vineyard Fast Ferry, 401-295-4040; www.vineyardfastferry.com). All provide lots for overnight parking. Only Woods Hole ferries accommodate cars, so it's best to make a reservation, especially in high season. The advantage of the Quonset crossing is that you can avoid the Cape's bottlenecked causeways. In bad weather, call ahead to make sure the boats are running.

AIRPORT
Martha's Vineyard Airport (508-693-7022) is served by Cape Air from Boston, New Bedford, Hyannis, Nantucket, and Providence (800-352-0714; www.flycapeair.com). US Airways Express also has flights from New York, Washington D.C., and Hyannis (800-428-4322; www.usairways.com). The Martha's Vineyard Transit Authority runs buses between the airport and other island towns (508-693-9440; www.vineyardtransit.com).

GETTING AROUND

The islands can become a parking lot in summer, so most visitors leave their cars on the mainland and get around by bike, bus, or foot.

Martha's Vineyard Transit buses serve all six island towns and cover most major points of interest, including ferries and beaches. Fares are $1 per trip, $6 for a day pass, and $25 for the week; tickets can be purchased on the bus, at Steamship Authority terminals, or from ticket sellers at the Oak Bluffs and Vineyard Haven stops (508-693-9440; www.vineyardtransit.com).

Many hotels can arrange bike rentals; ritzier resorts provide their own fleets. There are many places to rent two-wheelers, including Anderson's Bike Rentals in Oak Bluffs (23 Circuit Ave. Extension; 508-693-9346) and Edgartown Bicycles (212 Main St.; 508-627-9008; www.edgartownbicycle.com).

TOURIST INFO

The Chamber of Commerce is located at Beach Road in Vineyard Haven (800-505-4815 or 508-693-0085; www.mvy.com). Information booths are also set up at the ferry terminal. Martha's Vineyard Online (www.mvol.com), the island's "official website," has useful information for visitors as well.