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Melbourne Supper Club, Melbourne

161 Spring Street
Australia 3000
Tel: 61 3 9654 6300's insider take:

A perpetually closed, unmarked door hides what could be the country's best wine bar. The 94-page drink list leaves little room for criticism, though rival barmen snipe that the club doesn't stock enough of the pricier vintages. The menu is subdivided by grape type and blend, with an array of special vintages, plus boutique beers and spirits. The best plan is to throw some plastic on the bar, settle into one of the worn chesterfields, and prepare for a long night in. That Grange Hermitage might set you back a few thousand, but hey, who's counting? Lounge-y music underscores a steady hum of conversation that rarely abates before dawn. The lines on weekends may look daunting, but they move fast.

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