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Ladro, Melbourne

224 Gertrude Street
Australia 3065
Tel: 61 3 9415 7575's insider take:

Most of the marble-topped tables in this convivial eatery are communal—the better for ogling other diners' wood-fired pizzas before you order. Chef Rita Macali's pies are truly sensational: asymmetrical, crispy-crusted, and slightly charred, with first-rate toppings. Try the meat-and-tomato-heavy Badabing, or the pungent puttanesca with capers and olives. Ladro's loyal following among inner-city hipsters and trendy food lovers makes it hard to get a table, so book a week or more in advance. But if you're craving pizza on the go, opt for takeout. It's usually ready in ten minutes: just enough time to down a microbrewed beer at the bar or in the courtyard.

Dinner only. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

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