Australia VIC 3000
Tel: 61 3 9650 3155
Concierge.com's insider take:
The name might suggest an ending, but Adam D'Sylva—a young chef who has long been one of Melbourne's culinary it-boys—is really just getting started. At Coda, recently opened off the hipster highway of Flinders Lane in the city's heart, his menu explodes with Asian flavor and modern Australian wit. Vietnamese and Thai (and to a lesser extent Japanese and Cantonese) elements rule here: Consider the yellow curry of roast duck with lotus root, or the "crisp parcel" (let's call it a spring roll) stuffed with bone marrow, ginger, shiitakes, and rice-paddy herb. But D'Sylva's enthusiasm crosses cultural bounds, as shown by his the inclusion of San Daniele prosciutto and a steak tartare with quail egg, mustard cress, and caper Melba toasts. Quality drinks flow thick and fast: It's all good, clean, vibrant fun, carried off with the kind of aplomb that's hard to resist.—Pat Nourse, first published on Gourmet.com
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