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Da Giacomo, Milan

6 Via Pascale Sottocorno
Italy 20129
Tel: 39 02 7602 3313's insider take:

Most of the time, fashion-industry people don't eat in the glitzy bars and restaurants they put their names to. They come to Da Giacomo instead. On an anonymous residential street a brisk 15-minute walk from the fashion district, this high-class trattoria has been pulling in the movers and shakers of the rag trade for decades, alongside financiers, designers, architects, and captains of industry. On any given evening, you might see Giorgio Armani tucking into a plate of linguine with scampi and zucchini flowers, or Dolce and Gabbana (actually, these days, Dolce or Gabbana) wrestling with a grilled turbot. But it's far from pretentious: Venerable Giacomo is an able and serious host, the service is affably old-fashioned, and the reliable cuisine is rooted in Giacomo's family's Tuscan origins, with fiorentina steaks backing up an impressive range of just-off-the-boat seafood. Just watch those skinny models attack the dessert cart, and marvel at the elegant decor, a present to Giacomo from late, great interior designer Renzo Mongiardino. It's not even particularly expensive ($95 for a three-course prix fixe), though be aware that the fresh fish and seafood secondi, sold by weight, can push the price up considerably. Booking is essential.

Lunch and dinner daily.

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