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Moscatelli, Milan

93 Corso Garibaldi
Italy 20121
Tel: 39 02 655 4602's insider take:

Fast food doesn't come much tastier than this, in a rustic, home-cooking sort of way. Though it's had more than one makeover since opening in 1859, this tiny, buzzing, great-value bottiglieria (wine shop with tables) is still a charmingly local place to refuel on a filling spread of risottos (with nettles, or with pumpkin and vegetables), pasta dishes, megasalads, and meaty secondi like osso buco, all served from a glassed-in buffet counter. Take a seat in the crowded back room, which has a vintage jukebox: The waiter will bring your food and drinks—including, perhaps, a glass or two of wine from a surprisingly refined list. No need to ask for the bill; you simply pay on the way out. The clientele is more upmarket than the mama's-cooking vibe might suggest. After all, Moscatelli's is just a high-heeled hop from the alternative fashion strip of Corso Como.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 2 a.m.

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