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Trattoria Madonnina, Milan

6 Via Gentilino
Italy 20136
Tel: 39 02 8940 9089's insider take:

You couldn't design a trattoria this authentic (though this being Milan, they probably did). Beer company clocks, framed photos of someone's grandparents, a poster for a Rod Stewart concert in Sweden, and old road signs jostle one another on the walls, while down below, the red-check tablecloth reigns supreme. The menu—basically a photocopied scrawl—takes in filling northern staples like tortellini in brodo or sausages with braised verza (a kind of cabbage), and the classic bollito misto (a dish of mixed boiled meats). The clientele is a mix of old regulars and young hipsters attracted by the buzz and the low prices—if you pay more than $30 a head with wine, you've really pushed the boat out. Despite its out-of-the-way location—in the southern Navigli neighborhood—it's always packed: So book ahead, or take your chances.

Open Mondays through Wednesdays noon to 2:30 pm, Thursdays through Saturdays noon to 2:30 pm and 8 to 10:30 pm.

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