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Milan
Italy 20123
Tel: 39 02 8941 1146 (reservations)
Concierge.com's insider take:
Some claim that the visit to Leonardo's greatest wall painting is an Emperor's New Clothes experience: The artist used an unstable dry-painting technique rather than fresco, and so much paint has faded and flaked off over the years that it has become difficult to appreciate the work for the masterpiece that it once was. Enough is left, though, to catch the daring compositional scheme and Leonardo's bold use of primary colors—looking fresher since the end of a 20-year restoration in 1999. But if you intend to visit—perhaps to check out firsthand Dan Brown's thesis that fey blond John the Baptist, to Christ's right, is actually Mary Magdalene—you'll need to reserve about a week in advance by ringing the number given above (frustratingly, online booking is not possible). Be patient: At peak times they can take forever to answer the phone. Avoid visiting on weekends and at peak periods such as Easter or Italian public holidays.
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