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Soam, Mumbai

Sadguru Sadan, Ground Floor
Opposite the Babulnath Temple
Tel: 91 22 2369 8080's insider take:

Be prepared for a tedious wait outside this local vegetarian institution: There are no reservations, and tables are usually packed with chattering housewives from the surrounding neighborhoods, the bastions of old business families from Gujarat and Rajasthan. The food served at Soam is primarily from these two states, and is prepared by maharajs, cooks traditionally retained in the wealthy households of Western India. Standout dishes include dal dhokli, a spiced dumpling simmered in a rich lentil broth; and the Farsan platter, an assortment of savories including fluffy yellow dhoklas served with tamarind chutney and samosas stuffed with spinach and cheese. A tumbler of thick mango lassi, topped with shavings of nutmeg and pistachio, will do nicely for dessert. Vegetarianism doesn't get more sinful than this.

Open daily 5 am to 11 pm.

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