New Orleans

Lay of the Land: Most weekenders and conventioneers rarely get past the historic French Quarter and the Central Business District, which contain the lion's share of the larger hotels as well as the Convention Center and New Orleans's classic restaurants, bars, and other forms of adult entertainment (we have a sneaking suspicion you know what we mean). These districts' appeal to the original French colonists—high ground near the Mississippi River—proved advantageous in Katrina's wake, as well: Both zones escaped severe flooding damage and rebounded quickly, along with the other river-hugging neighborhoods (Faubourg Marigny, the Warehouse District, the Garden and Lower Garden districts, Uptown, and Riverbend). These are now the city's most active neighborhoods, where new businesses, boutiques, and restaurants have flourished as residents returned from evacuation. There has been progress in other lower-lying neighborhoods such as Mid-City, the Lower Ninth Ward, and New Orleans East. The recovery has been impressive but is still ongoing.

WHEN TO GO

New Orleans's biggest cultural events—Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest—take place in late winter and spring, avoiding the summer heat waves and storms. The large conventions that traditionally take over whole floors of local hotels have been slow to return—a situation that's frustrating for hoteliers but a boon for independent travelers. Bargain rates that formerly turned up only in the summer off-season are now available nearly year-round. A little-known sweet spot is in March and April, when the city catches its breath between Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest. As a local once put it, "Rooms cost a million bucks on Mardi Gras night, but on Ash Wednesday, you can buy the whole town for a dollar."

HOW TO GET THERE

Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport is located approximately 11 miles from downtown New Orleans (504-464-0831; www.flymsy.com). Taxis from the airport into town charge a flat rate for one or two people ($28), plus a surcharge for each additional passenger. There's also an airport shuttle that leaves every 30 minutes and stops at various hotels; buy your ticket ($13) at the booth in the baggage claim area (504-522-3500; www.airportshuttleneworleans.com).

GETTING AROUND

In terms of basic transportation, the options are leaner than before Hurricane Katrina hit, with RTA buses now running on altered routes. However, the city's historic green streetcars are literally back on track along oak-shaded St. Charles Avenue. They've been joined by modern red counterparts that run the length of Canal Street from the French Quarter to City Park. Current route maps and schedules are available at 504-248-3900 or www.norta.com.

In a town known for its ragtag fleet of owner-operated gypsy cabs, taxi service is slow, especially during busy tourist seasons. Even using the generally reliable United Cabs requires considerable patience (504-522-9771; www.unitedcabs.com). Ask your hotel's concierge for average wait times so you can plan accordingly.

TOURIST INFO

The New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau provides basic tourism information; its Web site lists what's open and what's still closed (2020 St. Charles Ave.; 800-672-6124; www.neworleanscvb.com). There's also a state tourism welcome center in the French Quarter (529 St. Ann St.; 504-568-5661), and you can get great cultural guides to the city from New Orleans's official tourism Web site (www.neworleansonline.com). Offbeat, a free local monthly magazine, offers in-depth coverage of the music scene (www.offbeat.com). The city's Times-Picayune newspaper publishes its entertainment section on Fridays. The alternative paper, The Gambit, hits the stands on Sundays.